Saturday 12 March 2016

It has  been a nice relaxing day - no bus, no subway, no museums just a nice day at the races followed by dinner at our favourite Palermo restaurant, La Josephina. 3 nights out of six!  Got to the track at about 3.45 pm, Pablo picked us up and Maria Julia met us there.   The first race was at 2pm and the last at 9.30 pm so a big day, with only about 16 minutes between races.  We stayed until about 7.30, had already said our goodbyes to P & MJ as they had another function on tonight.  I finally had a win, spent 10 pesos to win 26 pesos (about $2.36 Aus) but otherwise a non profitable day.  The races here are so unlike those at home - predominately men, certainly no Flemington on an ordinary day even.  The few women were casually dressed, eg pants, jeans and something I have noticed here is the girls are all wearing high platform shoes.  Not sure if they are ahead or behind the fashion trend! 

Was tempted to order a steak at La Josephina but I decided on a delicious mushroom risotto and definitely made the right choice.  G had a rump steak which could have served at least 2 people but not much left on the plate I noticed.  

Now to get everything back into the suitcases and be told how much excess we have to pay tomorrow on our flight to Santiago, Chile! 

Pic 1 dinner

Pic 2 being paid a big sum!

Pics 3-5 at the track

Pic 6 La Josephina restaurant

Pic 7 outdoor cafe at Eva Peron museum, Palermo

Friday 11 March 2016

Decided this morning to go back to the Colon Theatre for a tour in English - went there on Tuesday but were told they were servicing lighting that day and the actual theatre was in darkness - we got there today and the same message was displayed so saved our money and opted for something else. Checked our notes and found that there was a Jesuit centre, highly recommended for tours, cafes, local artist shops etc, reasonably close so we walked about 10 blocks along very uneven pavements, through the theatre/music district of Buenos Aires and were told the tour was at 3 pm - too late for us unfortunately!  The courtyard adjacent to the centre was nice, we enjoyed a beer while deciding the next move then wandered through the small shops there. Have decided this beautiful city needs a thorough clean up - if only they could put some of those bandits to work replacing pavement tiles, picking up litter etc it would be so much more pleasant to walk around.  

Maria-Julia & Pablo picked us up late afternoon for the 30 + km drive to their daughter, Mercedes's house for a five year old birthday party.  (We met Mercedes when she came to our house with her parents as a 17 year old).  She is now married to Tomas and has 2 children. It took 1 1/2 hours on the busiest freeway!  Thought we would never get there!  Was chaotic with about 20 kids having fun and we really only stayed about an hour but the idea was to have a brief visit.  They live in a gated community - both Mercedes and Tomas drive into BA city for work, she as a lawyer and he is an orthopedic surgeon at the British hospital.  

On the way home we stopped for dinner at 1000 Eosa Negra, San Isidro racecourse - a beautiful restaurant trackside.  We are going to a different racecourse tomorrow.  

Thursday 10 March, 2016

Today has been a day of highs and lows.  Firstly, we heard that Howard Goldstein, son of friends Rona and Dick, passed away this morning - he had pancreatic cancer and was aged 52.  

Pablo picked us up at 11.30 and we drove 35 kms north (or about an hour)  to the city of Tigre in order to take a boat trip through the delta region. Along the way, Pablo pointed out many monuments, important landmarks and buildings.  I was most impressed with the beautiful parks.  This cruise was for 2 hours and took us on a round trip starting with the Rio Sarmiento, into the Rio San Antonio, on to Canal Vinculacin and back along the Rio Lujan.  We had lunch on the boat and enjoyed the scenery - there are little waterways everywhere - people live in houses on stilts and have their own jetty for their boats.  Some of the places are resorts, others holiday houses and of course some live there permanently.  They don't have cars, relying on boats that move around selling everyday needs.  Many of the buildings and jetties were very run down, almost at collapsing stage - I suspect pesos are hard to come by!  

Back at the wharf, we drove for a bit, and suddenly we were in a street that looked anything but normal.  Pablo said 'this isn't a shanty town but is pretty close to one'.  Drove on a bit and I think he smelled a rat so wound down his window & asked (in Spanish) two old hags where the main drag was.  They initially walked away but then came close to the car and said something in Spanish to which he replied then out of nowhere there were about 4 young guys surrounding the car trying to get in the doors, windows, etc.  George screamed 'DRIVE ON PABLO. JUST DRIVE ON'. Well, Pablo gunned it, but you've guessed it!  - the road led to a tip at the end!!! Panic!  Did a quick turn to get out of the tip & had nowhere to go but back the way we'd come.  By then these thugs had placed a huge log right across the road - seriously, it's like your future flashes in front of you - there was just enough room on the left to get around the log but that was soooo close to the river and on the other side just enough to squeeze through and these guys were bashing the car, trying to break the windows, throwing what seemed like rocks and thank God we got out in the knick of time.  Very scary.  It appears the old hags told Pablo 'get out, you are going to be robbed!' We were so close to not only being robbed but possibly being beaten up. Thankfully Pablo drives a Mercedes with extra strong plate glass windows.  There is external damage to the car but lucky no damage underneath.  I asked why we actually ended up in that street and Pablo believes these characters had twisted the sign for Buenos Aires in the other direction!  

Stopped at the Public Golf Club on the way home for a strong coffee.  We have had avery interesting day - how we survived the trip to Tigre and home is a mystery!  I don't have any pics of the attempted hold-up as was too busy cowering in the back seat hiding my bag!!!!!

  

Wednesday, 9 March 2016

Well, it's still 9 March here in Buenos Aires but in Australia it is already 10 March so happy birthday to Caroline - 🎶🍷🍷hope you are having a very happy day!!!

Not a lot to report today - we did set off at around 11 am, walked to the subway (which I HATE) and went as far as the Cathedral.  The subway was packed, hot, humid and because I don't push my way past everyone to get a seat, I stand most of the way.  With perspiration dripping, we sat in the Cathedral for a while, then mosied around the square, walked into an amazing Bank building, looked at  some artwork, then took another subway to Plaza San Martin. Went in the wrong direction, had to change trains, double back, walk up several  flights of yet more stairs and finally arrived  at the park. 

I am definitely not a subway person - I realise it is a quick way to travel but in a city such as Buenos Aires and  as a visitor, surely it is preferable to see something as you travel rather than being couped up in a tube with no air!!!!!  Well, the story of 'moi knee' suddenly became 'my' knees - the humidity  and heat got to me and my knees were so painful on all those stairs that I said 'enough is enough, no more subway for me'!!

Found a deli, bought a savoury croissant each and sat in the park with a picnic.  Took a few photos  then realised there was a place nearby which was definitely worth seeing.  Called Palacio Paz it was a private residence built in the late 19th early early 20 th century and is considered to be the most notable residence of this period in South America.  More below, after the pics.  

Couldn't get a tour in English so settled for one in Spanish.  The guide was lovely and explained everything to us later in a simplistic  manner.  The house is gigantic, we were only on the second level which consisted of all the reception rooms, music room and  ballroom.  Mr Paz had everything transported from France and Italy for the construction of the house and he died 2 years before completion.  His intention was to become President of Argentina but sadly that didn't happen.  The rest of the family lived there in a grand fashion for many years but the building is now used as a private club.

The BUS trip home was crowded but at least we could see something and breathe in better air!!!

Had a salad next door for dinner & will be in bed and asleep before too long!  

Tuesday 8 March 2016

After the mundane duties such as a bit of ironing etc, Pablo picked us up at 10 am to take us on a tour of the Colon Theatre (we were there at a performance in 1988 but G can't remember that!) - got there, parked the car, went in to get tickets but found that on certain days the lighting is not on in the main theatre so we will go back another day.  Saw two people from the RACV group there!  We then walked across the square to the Supreme Court, had a good look around, and rubbed shoulders in the antique lift with a few busy barristers!  Mentioned to Pablo that I needed to buy some strong tape for the rip in my suitcase so we were then on a mission!  Asked at several book shops, finally pointed to a shop 2 blocks away, a hardware store which G & I would never have found! Got the tape then Pablo asked if we would like to visit a club he belongs to which was just across the road, next door to some buildings which would be declared uninhabitable at home.  It is the Progresso Club  - had a soft drink and relaxed for a little while, and then we had a look around the club.  It has a lovely looking restaurant open to the public but upstairs retains  club conditions!  Everything was antique, floor boards creaked, the library was shabby and musty, but from observation it is a club that has seen many important people pass through over the years.

I had the option of free time in the afternoon (bliss) or go with Pablo and George to the Remembrance and Human Rights Centre - no need to ask which I chose!  Was going to walk to Ave Sante Fe & check out the shops then get the bus home but decided to be dropped off near Palermo where we are staying and walked from there.  

Saw the beautiful city gift to the people of Buenos Aires along the way, in the shape of a flower, it opens and shuts according to the time of day. Just around the corner from our hotel I found the Eva Peron museum which is in a two story house - was excellent!  Then walked several blocks and found a nice little arcade but unfortunately by then most of the shops were having siesta so will have to go back!  Problem is, I can't buy anything much as bags are already overweight. 

George back from his excursion at around 6 then we went to la Josephina Parilla for dinner.  Ordered for two but had enough for four people - again, the food was wonderful.  But we only had one course, unlike for the past 2 weeks! 

Pics below are

1. View from hotel balcony

2. Pussco sour sitting on the hardware shop counter

3. Statue of Justice in the Supreme Court

4. Dinner at the Parilla

5. Inside the Progresso Club

6. The Flower monument

Monday 7 March 2016

Boarded a fabulous ferry in Montevideo for the 2 1/4 hour trip to Buenos Aires.  Everyone had to wear fabric disposable protectors over their shoes for the duration - looked silly but keeps the ferry pristine.  We had business class seats and were offered a glass of bubbly on embarkation.  All very civilised and a little plaque on the ferry showed it was built in Hobart!  The only negative for me was a big rip in my suitcase! Said a quick goodbye to the group and finally got a taxi to the Casa Sur Bellini hotel in Palermo.  The taxis here are generally pint size and also have gas tanks in the trunk so we did wait longer than  most to get the right fit!!!!

Found a laundry just around the corner so had that done and collected in 2 hours then our friend Pablo picked us up at 8pm for dinner.  We went to their house first, had a quick drink with he and Maria Julia then had a very enjoyable meal across the street from their house. 

The hotel is lovely, a smallish boutique one in one of the nicer areas of Buenos Aires.  

Not great pics today! 

Sunday 6 March 2016

The last full day of our RACV tour today - no wineries but we were taken on a tour of the city of Montevideo.  First of all we had an hour at the local flea market - it was interesting to say  the least and made Vic Market look like Myer or David Jones!!! You've never seen such a load of rubbish, ever.  There were puppies, looked about 3 weeks old, kittens, birds, mice, hamsters, all in small cages & being handled by everyone, then stuff that you wouldn't even consider taking to Vinnies.  But, as the saying goes, one man's trash...........!! 

Next, we went on to the city square and had a short walk to view important landmarks, buildings, etc.  - the city was very quiet as apparently most people stay home on Sundays and have BBQ!  For lunch we went to another market, more a market with many BBQ restaurants and touristy shops.  We found a place with a roaring fire & a heap of meats eg. beef, pork, chicken, sausages, tripe, lamb, vegs ( pumpkin, capsicums etc) so propped up at the bar to order. I had suckling pig - 2 pieces of pork served ith french fries and G had a steak which was ordered as a T-bone but more likely was a rack of short ribs.  All delicious and went down well with a glass of wine.

Tonight we had the farewell dinner at a very nice restaurant not far from our hotel. Hard to front up again to a full three course meal and we all wished we could take home doggy bags!!!  Entree was a shared platter of lovely meats and cheeses and we both ordered the steak for mains.  Dessert was tarte tartin or tirimisu. Six days to reduce the intake before our cruise!!!! Lucky I didn't give up food or wine for Lent!!!!  

 

Saturday 5 March 2016

Well, if it's Saturday then it must be another winery!  In a way it's sad because this is our last one for the trip.  And it wasn't a disappointment!  Just a short half hour or so out of Montevideo, the winery was appropriately called Bouza!  As in most places we have been, the grounds were beautiful and as well as wine the owners of Bouza also have a vintage car and motor cycle museum with 22 cars and 17 cycles.  

After a short talk by the guide we were shown into the grape sorting and crushing area which was interesting- the aroma was heaven!  Health and safety in Aust would have prevented us from being up so close to this operation without safety gear etc etc!!!  

Then on to the restaurant for lunch. Platters of cheese, ham, pate and an assortment of yummy breads were placed on each table of ten.  Five wines were then poured for tasting, each one meant to be paired with something on the plate but that wasn't made clear at the start so not much left on the plate when the 5th glass was poured!!!  🍷🍷🍷🍷🍷

We had a choice of lamb, fish or pasta and I have to say the lamb was amazing.  Served with mashed pumpkin with toasted almonds on top.  The creme caramel with dulce de leche was OK but too sweet for me so another couple of ozs saved!!!!

Back at the hotel by 4.30, I walked to the shopping mall which has an entrance from our hotel and realised we were there 3 years ago & I recognised the shop where I had bought a scarf.  

Met others in the Sheraton Club room at 6ish for complimentary drinks and nibbles & stayed until almost 10 pm, turned out a fun night.